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NEST BOX POINTERS by
Peter Tursa
Nest Box designs come in all sizes, shapes and materials.
I've just put together some ideas that I've used that
may be helpful for the beginner or even the seasoned breeder.
First thing to consider is will the box I build fit in
through the cage door! It's amazing how often we don't
think about the obvious. Second, the box has to be large
enough for the rabbit using it and third will it be easily
accessible by me the breeder when checking on the litter.
 I
make my nest boxes out of plywood and use wood bottoms.
I know that many breeders don't like the wood bottoms
because they retain the urine and droppings but it's always
worked for me. However, it's important that at around
the 10 day mark after kindling to go into the box and
replace the soiled material with fresh stuff. Does the
trick for me. If you don't replace the soiled material
you often get eye problems with the kits such as their
eyes not opening or getting infected.
Here is the schedule I use with my nest boxes:
- Place box in cage with doe : 3- 5 days before kindling
(26 - 28 days after breeding)
(I fill the box with barley straw and couple of handfuls
of wood shavings)
- Replace soiled nest box material : 10 - 12 days after
kindling
- Remove nest box from cage: : 21 days after kindling
In the summer I collect fur from does that pull an abundance
of fur. I place this collected fur in a bag that breathes
(I use my feed bags which are a woven plastic type) and
hang them up in the barn. Then in the winter when I have
a doe that does not pull enough fur in the cold weather
I just add fur to the nest box from the summer supply.
The receiving doe is not bothered by it and it helps to
keep the kits warm.
Click here
for my design and assembly instructions for building nest
boxes.
If you have found this article helpful or have suggestions
you would like to make; feel free to contact me via www.Tursaco.com
in which you'll find a contact page.
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